North Carolina (Part II) and Virginia

After leaving Belhaven, we entered the Alligator-Pungo Canal -- a 22 mile cut-out connecting the Alligator and Pungo Rivers. After the A-P Canal, we entered the Alligator River. The Alligator River was named that because it supposedly looks like an alligator. We saw no alligators. Cell service is spotty to non-existent in parts of the canal and the river. At the north end of the Alligator is a draw bridge that luckily opens on demand. We slowed for another trawler to catch up so we could both make the opening. We anchored just northwest of the bridge in the Little Alligator and Durant Island anchorages. The wind was blowing around 15 knots but died down at night. It was peaceful and quiet and we were the only boat anchored there.

Alligator River Bridge

Belhaven to Little Alligator River and Durant Island anchorage.

Taco stuffed tomatoes for dinner!

Saturday we took a detour from the ICW and made a relatively short trip to Manteo on Roanoke Island (OBX). We stayed at Manteo Waterfront Marina for two nights. We were right in the center of town -- which can literally be seen in about 10 minutes. Manteo has a free dock where you can stay for 24 hours and a nice anchorage but we elected to get a slip since we had never been there. The dock master was great and within seconds of 'hitting the town', both of us decided we could live there. There is a brew pub which closed as we were walking in because of a power outage and the next day, they closed at 4. There is a rum distillery with a cool little bar and a few restaurants, shops, etc. We will probably stay here again in October when we wait for our November 1st cannot-be-south-of-Hatteras insurance requirement.

Alligator River to Manteo

Rum tasting at Outer Banks Distillery.

Sharon getting ready to get her chocolate fix!

Sunday we hopped on our scooters hoping to go to Nags Head. Unfortunately, the sidewalk ended well before the first bridge so we decided to not take our lives in our hands and reversed course. We went in the other direction and checked out Elizabeth Gardens and the Lost Settlement/fort. It was a nice ride. After that, our niece Ashley and her boyfriend came to visit and we went out for dinner. It was great seeing Ashley and meeting Gage. 

Ashley and Sharon

Sharon on stage at the Lost Colony theater.

Monday we managed a Goldilocks day to cross the Albemarle Sound. The Albemarle should not be crossed if winds are blowing more than 15 knots. It was dead flat for us! After the Alebmarle, we wound our way to Coinjock Marina. The marina is one long face dock right on the ICW. They have a restaurant that is famous for their prime rib. I am not a huge prime rib fan but naturally had to get the "Captain's Cut" -- 32 oz of bone-in cow! Sharon got the broiled seafood platter which I would get next time. The only thing there is the marina but we enjoyed the stop.

Manteo to Coinjock

Albemarle Sound doesn't get any better!

The Captain's Cut! 32 oz of prime rib.

Leaving Coinjock Marina

Until Tuesday morning...  We made our normal underway preps and moved the boat a 100 feet or so to the fuel dock. I wanted to add 50 gallons as an insurance policy before getting to Herrington Harbour South. We fueled up and went to leave. I went to start the engine and it wouldn't start -- it turned over but wouldn't start. Seriously? It had been our trusty steed for over 2,000 miles!

OK. The engine died while we were tied up. That was good. I love diesel engines. They are relatively simple. They need air and clean fuel (that does NOT contain air). I started with the 'low hanging fruit' and removed the air filter in case that was clogged -- long shot but what the hell. Still wouldn't start.

Next I changed the fuel filter (Racor). Sharon was a huge help getting me tools and my spare diesel fuel can for just such an emergency. Engine still wouldn't start. We have a fuel polishing system that allows me to change a valve to by-pass the engine and flow fuel from one tank, through a filter and into another tank. I ran that to make sure fuel was at least flowing to the filter. Engine still wouldn't start. Next I changed the spin-off fuel filter on the engine after filling it with fuel. Engine still wouldn't start. Now it was time to crack the fuel injectors and get any air out of the fuel lines. Sharon worked the key while I watched for fuel to spurt out. It started spurting, I tightened the nuts and it fired right up! While the engine was running, I loosened and tightened each injector nut to ensure air was out of the line. Woohoo! I let the engine run for a while, revved it and declared we were good to go!

We were in the middle of the canal about a 1,000 yards from the marina and the engine died. Sharon let out a gasp. I let out an internal, "Oh shit." We let the boat drift slightly out of the center of the canal and Sharon dropped the anchor. I was inside trying to start the engine which wouldn't start. I opened the deck boards to the engine room and stared at the engine. Just like you do when your car dies and you pop the hood thinking you'll 'see something' or it will tell you what's wrong. No idea how I noticed this but remember that fuel polishing system? Well... my dumbass forgot to switch the valve from polish BACK to run. Valve in the run position and the engine started! I let it idle for a while, revved it, Sharon brought the anchor up and we were on our way for Portsmouth an hour and a half later.

I have NEVER had a fuel filter just suddenly clog! I have a vacuum gauge which I check daily. Typically, a filter will clog enough to allow enough fuel to pass to idle to slow speed but falter at higher RPMs. All I can say is those Basic and Advanced Diesel Mechanic classes I took paid off!

Fuel filter change in the 'man cave'.

After 20 miles or so, we came to our first draw bridge about 10-15 minutes before it's scheduled opening. After that was another bridge that we had to go 'full speed', and I mean at one point, WOT (wide open throttle!) to make it. Next was the Great Bridge Bridge (that's actually the name) which ONLY opens on the hour. Nailed it! Immediately following that is the Great Bridge Lock. After clearing the bridge, the lock master hailed us to give us instructions to enter the lock.

The west side of the lock is lined with rubber so we didn't even need fenders. The sailboat behind us had countless fenders out along with fender boards. Maybe this was their first time through this lock too? The lock raised us maybe one foot and was a piece of cake.

Almost to Portsmouth. As we're approaching the Norfolk/Southern 7 Bridge, we see flashing red lights and what looks like the bridge going down. Nooooo! We were stuck. It took at least 15 minutes before the train started crossing. And this was by far the longest train I have EVER seen! It had to have been at least a mile or more. It was probably in Maryland before we saw the end. And to add to the misery, it stopped for about 10 minutes. Finally it passed, the bridge went up and we were on our way holding our breaths as we approached the remaining two railroad bridges.

The train is stopping, REALLY!?!

We docked at Tidewater Marina and met one of my best friends from high school, Kevin, for dinner at Fish and Slips right at the marina. Unfortunately, Nancy, wasn't able to join us. It was great seeing Kevin after 3+ years!

Coinjock to Portsmouth

Rob and Kevin

Wednesday we traveled over eight hours to an anchorage just south of the Potomac River. Norfolk is fascinating with all the commercial, recreational and Navy traffic. I prefer to travel right on the side of the channel and stay out of everyone's way. We had a rare passage with following wind, seas and current! The only downside is 'surfing' and the auto pilot working overtime.

We anchored in Ellyson Cove which was pretty nice. There's a beach and several nice houses on the shore line.  The crab pots were scattered everywhere. The next morning we brought up the anchor and finished our journey to our old marina, Herrington Harbour South. We passed Pam and Rich on Drunken Princess on their way south to the Outer Banks. 

Portsmouth to Ellyson Cove (Reedville)

North Carolina (Part I)

Our first stop in North Carolina was St. James Plantation Marina (MM 315) in Southport. We were originally planning on anchoring in the basin in Southport or trying to get a free slip at one of the restaurants but it was a Saturday and didn't want to take the chance of nothing being available. And we're glad we made that decision! We were able to connect with our friends, Tom and Colleen, who we bought our dream boat from 10 years ago. They live across the street from the marina, invited us over for dinner and drinks and even offered to let us use their car (before the drinks) to get provisions and use their washer and dryer. They are big time RVers and ready to get their coach on the road mid-June. It is so nice having family and friends all up and down the East coast!

Little River Swing Bridge

Tom and Colleen

Leaving St. James Plantation Marina

Sunday we headed to Surf City. This took us up the Cape Fear River which we naturally hit right when the current was flowing at it's hardest against us. We crossed the river and went as far outside the channel as we could where the current wasn't as strong. We were able to gain 2-3 knots in speed by doing this 'trick'. After ten miles on the Cape Fear, we went through Snows Cut which can be a 'log flume' with the current if you hit it at the right time. Next was Carolina Beach and Wrightsville Beach -- remind me NEVER to transit this area on a weekend EVER! There were so many boats and jet skis it was mind numbing! We had two bridges we needed to clear. First was Wrightsville Beach Bridge that only opens once an hour, on the hour. I don't know how, but somehow we got there right at noon. Whew! The second one was Figure Eight Island Swing Bridge. I contacted the bridge tender who told me we had 24 feet. No problem! Something tells me the tide boards are not accurate because we only cleared it by maybe six inches. The guy in the boat behind us was cheering and holding up his fingers showing how much we had cleared it by.

Our journey ended at Harbour Village Marina (MM 267). This was the first marina where the dock master sent us instructions via text. That included a drone video of the channel and marina, where our dock and slip were, what side we were tying up to, and more! Usually it's a garbled VHF 'description' and we're both looking at each other hoping the other one heard and understood what was said. The dock master was also top notch and made Sharon's life easy. This trip actually required a shot once we were tied up -- first time that I can remember needing that! Sharon even offered to get me a shot while we were underway (which I reluctantly declined). A quick shower, power nap, packed up and my sister and brother-in-law, Wendy and Jeff, picked us up to stay at their house. 

We love hanging with Wendy and Jeff! They live on Topsail Island and we enjoyed good food, good conversation, the beach, doing FIVE loads of laundry and provisioning. We hadn't done laundry since Vero Beach almost three weeks ago. We also had a few pieces of mail delivered along with several Best Buy and Amazon packages!

Wendy and Jeff made a run to the Exchange at Jacksonville last weekend
so we could stock up on beer!

Tuesday we left 'bright and early' to head to Swansboro. This section of the ICW took us through Camp LeJeune and a 'live fire' zone. I called the day before to see if there was a live fire planned and there was. A four mile section of the ICW was closed from 0800-1200 and 1300-1700. Immediately before that four mile section is a swing bridge that only opens on the hour and half hour. I called the bridge tender to confirm they would open and was told they would as long as they got permission from the base. We saw three other boats leave our marina heading north much earlier than I had planned on leaving. That made me nervous and afraid we might have current against us so we took off around 0800. We ended up catching the current in our favor (which rarely seems to happen) and spent the last hour and a half cruising at idle speed only to still get there 30 minutes before the bridge was scheduled to open at noon. Well, it didn't open at noon. We and another trawler sat fighting the wind and current for 30 minutes waiting for the 1200 opening. Then at 1220, another trawler came up the river and kept coming at us. I have no idea where they thought they were going but they were dangerously close to us. So I 'floored' it to get away from them and they followed me! Seriously!?! Finally at 1230, the bridge tender announced he had permission to open and we needed to 'hurry'. There was a total of four trawlers and none of us 'hurry' anywhere.

We arrived in Swansboro (MM 229) which is on wide open water and the wind was blowing hard! After a little circling around the city dock we had a 'plan'. Somehow we managed to get right into our slip and tied up no problem. As we were getting settled in, another boat pulled in and turned out to be a couple, Scott and Sue Ellen, we knew from Herrington Harbour! It was nice seeing them and catching up with them.

The wind from the day before blew through the night and continued into the morning. Going southbound, we would have stayed put. Not this trip! It was blowing 15 knots with gusts in the 20s. Fortunately, it was blowing mostly in the direction we were traveling and where we were traveling was reasonably protected. Soooo.... we both decided to go for it. We had a plan A, B and C. Plan A was to go to Oriental. Plan B was to anchor in Beaufort if it was too rough. Plan C was to anchor in Cedar Creek right before the Neuse River if the Neuse was too rough to make it to Oriental. 

The trip was actually pleasant with very little traffic. We skipped Beaufort and Oriental. Oriental has a couple of free docks but you can't run your generator unless you want to risk getting a fine. And there really isn't much to do in Oriental. We talked about anchoring in Oriental and Sharon suggested Plan C. So we anchored in Cedar Creek (MM 187.5) That made the most sense since we would be going up the Neuse River to Belhaven.

Dredge rig. Always pass on the side showing the two vertical diamonds (diamonds are your friend).
It's also a good idea to hail the captain to confirm the safe side to pass.

Morehead City Bridge and MHC Railroad Bridge. Luckily the railroad bridge remained up.
We heard a train in the not-so-far distance and were afraid it would close right when we got to it.

Cement Plant [what this is courtesy of Nancy Bonnema]

Cedar Creek anchorage is less than 190 miles from Hampton.

The Neuse is one of several rivers (and sounds) along the ICW not to transit in any kind of rough weather. It can be nasty. We left Thursday morning figuring we could turn around and go back to Cedar Creek if it was too rough. It wasn't bad at all even though NOAA called for 'moderate chop'.

After the 'dreaded' Neuse River, we went through Goose Creek, Pamlico River and the Pungo River to Belhaven (MM 136). We went to Belhaven's free dock where there are no services (no electricity, water, restrooms, etc). It is in the middle of nowhere and again, wind was blowing. Not sure why the wind always kicks in when it's time to dock!?! We got tied up (for the most part) and Sharon and I were laughing trying to get a final spring line around a high piling. She got it! Once we were settled in, it was nap time and then a walk into town just to get off the boat. Ace Hardware was open along with a couple of shops but no restaurants. They opened later in the evening so we just went back to the boat and had grouper, rice and a salad for dinner. Yum! We spent several days here last October so there wasn't anything new to see. Tomorrow we head up the Alligator River and will anchor near the Albermarle Sound.

All by ourselves on the free dock. It is at the 'end of the world' in Belhaven.

Perdue Agri-something or other.