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Belhaven to Little Alligator River and Durant Island anchorage.
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Taco stuffed tomatoes for dinner!
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Saturday we took a detour from the ICW and made a relatively short trip to Manteo on Roanoke Island (OBX). We stayed at Manteo Waterfront Marina for two nights. We were right in the center of town -- which can literally be seen in about 10 minutes. Manteo has a free dock where you can stay for 24 hours and a nice anchorage but we elected to get a slip since we had never been there. The dock master was great and within seconds of 'hitting the town', both of us decided we could live there. There is a brew pub which closed as we were walking in because of a power outage and the next day, they closed at 4. There is a rum distillery with a cool little bar and a few restaurants, shops, etc. We will probably stay here again in October when we wait for our November 1st cannot-be-south-of-Hatteras insurance requirement.
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Alligator River to Manteo
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| Rum tasting at Outer Banks Distillery. |
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| Sharon getting ready to get her chocolate fix! |
Sunday we hopped on our scooters hoping to go to Nags Head. Unfortunately, the sidewalk ended well before the first bridge so we decided to not take our lives in our hands and reversed course. We went in the other direction and checked out Elizabeth Gardens and the Lost Settlement/fort. It was a nice ride. After that, our niece Ashley and her boyfriend came to visit and we went out for dinner. It was great seeing Ashley and meeting Gage.
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| Ashley and Sharon |
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| Sharon on stage at the Lost Colony theater. |
Monday we managed a Goldilocks day to cross the Albemarle Sound. The Albemarle should not be crossed if winds are blowing more than 15 knots. It was dead flat for us! After the Alebmarle, we wound our way to Coinjock Marina. The marina is one long face dock right on the ICW. They have a restaurant that is famous for their prime rib. I am not a huge prime rib fan but naturally had to get the "Captain's Cut" -- 32 oz of bone-in cow! Sharon got the broiled seafood platter which I would get next time. The only thing there is the marina but we enjoyed the stop.
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Manteo to Coinjock
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| Albemarle Sound doesn't get any better! |
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| The Captain's Cut! 32 oz of prime rib. |
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Leaving Coinjock Marina
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Until Tuesday morning... We made our normal underway preps and moved the boat a 100 feet or so to the fuel dock. I wanted to add 50 gallons as an insurance policy before getting to Herrington Harbour South. We fueled up and went to leave. I went to start the engine and it wouldn't start -- it turned over but wouldn't start. Seriously? It had been our trusty steed for over 2,000 miles!
OK. The engine died while we were tied up. That was good. I love diesel engines. They are relatively simple. They need air and clean fuel (that does NOT contain air). I started with the 'low hanging fruit' and removed the air filter in case that was clogged -- long shot but what the hell. Still wouldn't start.
Next I changed the fuel filter (Racor). Sharon was a huge help getting me tools and my spare diesel fuel can for just such an emergency. Engine still wouldn't start. We have a fuel polishing system that allows me to change a valve to by-pass the engine and flow fuel from one tank, through a filter and into another tank. I ran that to make sure fuel was at least flowing to the filter. Engine still wouldn't start. Next I changed the spin-off fuel filter on the engine after filling it with fuel. Engine still wouldn't start. Now it was time to crack the fuel injectors and get any air out of the fuel lines. Sharon worked the key while I watched for fuel to spurt out. It started spurting, I tightened the nuts and it fired right up! While the engine was running, I loosened and tightened each injector nut to ensure air was out of the line. Woohoo! I let the engine run for a while, revved it and declared we were good to go!
We were in the middle of the canal about a 1,000 yards from the marina and the engine died. Sharon let out a gasp. I let out an internal, "Oh shit." We let the boat drift slightly out of the center of the canal and Sharon dropped the anchor. I was inside trying to start the engine which wouldn't start. I opened the deck boards to the engine room and stared at the engine. Just like you do when your car dies and you pop the hood thinking you'll 'see something' or it will tell you what's wrong. No idea how I noticed this but remember that fuel polishing system? Well... my dumbass forgot to switch the valve from polish BACK to run. Valve in the run position and the engine started! I let it idle for a while, revved it, Sharon brought the anchor up and we were on our way for Portsmouth an hour and a half later.
I have NEVER had a fuel filter just suddenly clog! I have a vacuum gauge which I check daily. Typically, a filter will clog enough to allow enough fuel to pass to idle to slow speed but falter at higher RPMs. All I can say is those Basic and Advanced Diesel Mechanic classes I took paid off!
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Fuel filter change in the 'man cave'.
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After 20 miles or so, we came to our first draw bridge about 10-15 minutes before it's scheduled opening. After that was another bridge that we had to go 'full speed', and I mean at one point, WOT (wide open throttle!) to make it. Next was the Great Bridge Bridge (that's actually the name) which ONLY opens on the hour. Nailed it! Immediately following that is the Great Bridge Lock. After clearing the bridge, the lock master hailed us to give us instructions to enter the lock.
The west side of the lock is lined with rubber so we didn't even need fenders. The sailboat behind us had countless fenders out along with fender boards. Maybe this was their first time through this lock too? The lock raised us maybe one foot and was a piece of cake.
Almost to Portsmouth. As we're approaching the Norfolk/Southern 7 Bridge, we see flashing red lights and what looks like the bridge going down. Nooooo! We were stuck. It took at least 15 minutes before the train started crossing. And this was by far the longest train I have EVER seen! It had to have been at least a mile or more. It was probably in Maryland before we saw the end. And to add to the misery, it stopped for about 10 minutes. Finally it passed, the bridge went up and we were on our way holding our breaths as we approached the remaining two railroad bridges.
The train is stopping, REALLY!?!
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We docked at Tidewater Marina and met one of my best friends from high school, Kevin, for dinner at Fish and Slips right at the marina. Unfortunately, Nancy, wasn't able to join us. It was great seeing Kevin after 3+ years!
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Coinjock to Portsmouth
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Rob and Kevin
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Wednesday we traveled over eight hours to an anchorage just south of the Potomac River. Norfolk is fascinating with all the commercial, recreational and Navy traffic. I prefer to travel right on the side of the channel and stay out of everyone's way. We had a rare passage with following wind, seas and current! The only downside is 'surfing' and the auto pilot working overtime.
We anchored in Ellyson Cove which was pretty nice. There's a beach and several nice houses on the shore line. The crab pots were scattered everywhere. The next morning we brought up the anchor and finished our journey to our old marina, Herrington Harbour South. We passed Pam and Rich on Drunken Princess on their way south to the Outer Banks.
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