Wanderers : January 2023

Hanoi is the capital and second-largest city of Vietnam. Hanoi's history dates back to third century BCE. It was originally the capital of the historic Vietnamese nation of Au Lac. Following the collapse of Au Lac, the city was part of Han China. In 1010, it went back to being part of Vietnam and was named Thang Long (Ascending Dragon). The city was renamed Hanoi in 1831 and served as the capital of French Indochina from 1902 to 1945.

How did we get here? We flew Vietnam Airlines from Hue to Hanoi. This was our third flight in Vietnam and are totally spoiled with business class (which doesn't cost much more than economy). We used Hanoi Transport Services for transport to and from both airports. Our other options were a much cheaper 15 hour plus sleeper train or sleeper bus. We have heard we should experience a train and/or bus but a one hour plane ride seemed like the way to go.

Shrimp and Salmon Snack

Our own shuttle bus!

Our transport from the airport

Where did we stay? We stayed in the Old Quarter of Hanoi at the Hanoi Emerald Waters Hotel and Spa. This was our first hotel without a window, not a fan but at least the room was dark.

Our welcome drink

What did we do? We spent four nights in Hanoi during the end of Tet which gave us plenty of time to check out the Old Quarter. We took walks around the area, explored back streets and people watched. It is NOT relaxing! First (like almost every SE Asian town and city), there is no simply sauntering down the sidewalk. Sidewalks are not for walking. They are 'available real estate' for food vendors, souvenier vendors, restaurant overflow seating, motorbike parking, car parking. So you walk in the street most of the time. Except there are cars, buses, motorbikes, etc on the sides of the road. So you walk around them. But there are people walking in the other direction. So you walk around them. By now, you're in the middle of the street getting honked at by motorbikes, cars, buses, etc. because you're in the middle of the street. Ahh! 🤯 Then comes time to cross the street. You try and wait for an opening but for the most part, you just walk and the traffic (mostly motorbikes) go around you. It's insane but there is no road rage. No one seems to get upset (except me internally. That f------r tried to hit me!).

Beer Street: Actually Ha Tien but nicknamed Beer or Pub Street. It's a tourist hot spot and supposed to have the cheapest beer in town. I don't think so... We ate here three nights. Our first night we had a 'front row' seat and a seafood hot pot. I was convinced that any moment that scalding pot was going to get knocked over and land in our laps. It was really good!

Hoan Kiem Lake: This was just a short walk from our hotel.

Hoa Lo Prison aka "Hanoi Hilton": Originally built by the French to imprison, torture and sometimes execute Vietnamese political prisoners. It is creepy upon entering and the whole way through. The prison's displays focus on the sufferings of Vietnamese revolutionaries who were confined (and sometimes executed) here when the French were the masters of Vietnam in the early part of the 20^th century. American POWs do make an appearance and they're presented as clean-shaven, well-treated, and making nice with their captors - all in a single room silently overseen by a captured flight suit.

The Toilet

The Guillotine

Flight Suit

Part of the underground sewer prisoners escaped from in March 1945

Train Street: Train tracks run right through Hanoi and people live along the tracks. There are buildings with homes and restaurants just a meter or two from the rails. You used to be able to sit at a table and chairs as a train passed within inches. This street was really cool! Unfortunately the trains were not running until later in the evening when we were there. We did enjoy lunch and the view.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: This was a huge complex with Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum taking center stage. We walked the grounds but didn't get to see him 'laying in state'. There was the palace grounds to explore too but we were both getting tired after miles of walking.

Ninh Binh: We booked this tour through Vietsailtours.This was the same company we used for our upcoming Ha Long Bay cruise. They are fantastic to work with! A bus picked us up at 0730. We took a boat ride around Trang An which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and where Kong's movie, Skull Island, was filmed. A woman rowed the boat. I 'helped' row with my pathetic bamboo paddle and Sharon got a blister within minutes. Most of the boat rowers were women who take boats out all day and make about $150-$200/month. These are the people we love to generously tip. We had a buffet lunch, toured Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam between 968 and 1010, bicycled (Sharon's favorite! lol), and climbed 500 steps up Lying Dragon Mountain for an amazing view of Tam Coc. It was a long day and our tour guide, who told us he made a good living ($350-400/month), didn't seem the slightest bit tired.

Vincom Mega Mall Royal City: This mall is HUGE! I needed pants. Not elephant pants but warm pants. I fired up the Grab app (like Uber/Lyft for cabs) and got us a cab to the mall. There are three underground floors of store after store. Nike, Under Armor, you name it. I bought a pair of pants and more socks! Sharon was on a mission for a long-sleeve shirt which she still hasn't found... We had sushi for lunch and headed back to our hotel.