Friday, May 19, 2023

Italy - Salerno

Salerno is a beautiful city located in the Campania region of southern Italy, on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. We chose Salerno based on a recommendation from our niece, Andrea, and to experience the train ride.


How did we get here? We stayed at the Navy Gateway Inn and Suites in Sigonella our last night. I don't really like staying on military bases and this was no exception but I was just tired of trying to find parking! (And it was close to the airport to return the car.) Evidentally the base is still in the process of converting from heat to AC and there was no way to control it in the room. The result, it was like a blast furnace! The next morning we returned our car, walked a kilometer to catch a bus to the train station. We then rode the train over seven hours to Salerno. The coolest thing was taking the ferry from Messina to Villa San Giovanni. The entire train rolled onto the ferry for the ride! We had a 'quad' (four seats with a table) all to ourselves. Other passengers were not quite as lucky.



Returned our rental

Waiting for the bus

Entertaining ourselves while waiting for the train.




Train pulling into ferry








Sicily in the background

Pulling into Villa San Giovanni

Wine on a train 
Sharon enjoying the ride and the wine

The views along the coast


Butt in my face for what seemed
like half an hour
Nap Time!


What did we do?  Well to be perfectly honest not much. The weather was chilly and rainy pretty much the entire time we were here. I know whoa is us.

Salerno Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of Saint Matthew. Built in the 11th century, this impressive cathedral is a beautiful example of Norman Romanesque architecture, with intricate carvings and frescoes adorning the interior.







Medieval Aqueduct of Salerno was built in the ninth century to supply water to the monastery of St. Benedict. The aqueduct was renamed "Bridges of the Devil" because according to a local legend, it was built in just one night by 12th-century alchemist Pietro Barliario, with the help of demons. The popular superstition also said that passing under the arches at dawn or dusk would result in meeting the devil or some kind of evil spirit. 

We did not go under the arches at dawn or dusk!








Took a leisurely stroll along the seafront promenade and wandered the back streets.



A day of chores is every day life for most but for us sometimes it takes an entire day to do the simplest things. Sorry this one is long.

Our day of chores actually started the night before when I started a load of laundry and the machine stopped suddenly and restarted and stopped several times before completely dying. So our first chore of the day was to head to the laundromat down the street. Everyone else decided it was laundry day also. Of course we had no idea what to do so I stuck money in the machine and chose #7 because laundry cost 7 Euros. The Italian women were pointing and speaking Italian and I didn't have a clue what they were saying. Well, I inadvertantly placed extra time on dryer #7, as the numbers on the money machine coincide with the numbers on the washers and dryers. Wash machine 2 was available, I put my money in and chose that one. Well #2 was being filled by the two young ladies that were there ahead of us. One of the young women gave me 7 Euros since I had paid for her machine. Finally washer 3 is available and 30 minutes later we were headed back to the apartment to hang up the laundry to dry. There was no way we were waiting for a dryer.

Chore number 2 a haircut, pretty simple. Well, we walked to the nearest salon and they could cut Sharon's hair but not until 5 so she made an appointment. There was another salon a few doors down so we walked in there and she asked using Google Translate (sames as the last place) for a shampoo, cut ✂️, and blow-dry. What she got was a shampoo and blow-dry. 🙄🤣 She was so frustrated 😠, but it did look nice.  Did I mention it's raining?


Now we need a barber and an ATM 🏧. We saw several of both in our previous walks but now we couldn't find one. Using Google Maps we finally found a barber. Naturally, it's siesta time and they were closed. Okay let's find the ATM. The first one we find is not on the Plus system so we move on to the next one. I get all the way through the transaction and the f$*$in machine says we cannot complete your transaction. I don't know what it is with me and ATMs but it has been like this in almost every country we have visited! At this point I was done. It was time for a nap.

Our host was supposed to drop by "at 3" to look at the washing machine. 🙄 Finally, at 1630, we gave up on waiting and went to the barbershop. Mario (yes, that was his name) was just sitting there waiting for me! Sharon left and went back to the first salon for her appointment. It had been since October since her last cut and she needed one (according to her). After my haircut, I went and finally found an operating ATM. What a day. Time for a beer!


Euros

Where did we stay? An AirBnB that was a seven minute walk from the train station. The kitchen was very basic but Sharon managed to whip up a delicious dinner on two separate occasions! The shower was a 'trickle' and when I complained, the host immediately stopped by, ran to the store and bought a new shower head (the other was clogged). Ahhh... a nice hot shower. We think the owners just started renting. There was a sponge in the kitchen but no dishwashing liquid. No coffee cups or wine glasses. Not even a corkscrew (luckily we had one -- go figure).







What did we eat?

When it comes to food and drink, Salerno is known for its delicious seafood dishes and local wines. One of the most popular local wines is the Aglianico, a full-bodied red wine made from grapes grown in the surrounding hills. It has a rich flavor and complex notes of dark fruit and spice.

In addition to its many tourist attractions and culinary delights, Salerno also hosts a number of cultural events and festivals throughout the year. The most famous of these is the Salerno Lights festival, which takes place every year in December and features elaborate light displays and decorations throughout the city.

Commissary since we were back on the Navy base we picked up subs. It which worked out perfect as we enjoyed the other 1/2 on the train. Pretty awesome deal deal for $4.99.


Panificio Arte in Grani right out our front door.

One of each please

Bar Rosa al Corso after having our apertivo we were too full for dinner.


Potato chips, mini pizzas, cheese balls and 
pigs in a blanket
I'm so tired of pictures 📸 

Osteria dei Sapori was located in a little alleyway. The food was good and the service was excellent!



Risotto Salmone e Polpa
di Granchio
Salmon with black rice Risotto 


Burrata Salad


Home cooked meals thanks Il Pastificio pasta shop and the local grocery store Sole365, both right around the corner from our apartment.





Our second dinner at home. Chicken with pasta! Fresh ravioli with Ricotta. 



Spicchio - while waiting for our sandwiches, the pizzas looked so good we decided to come back and try the pizza the next day. So glad we did!



Frittatina Cacio E Prociutto Cotto
Omelette Cacio E Prociutto Cooked
Provola, Melanzane E Salame
Dolce
Provola, Aubergines And Salami
Sweet




Dolci Ricordi - this place was right on the main drag in the historic area. The night we went there was not much people watching due to the rain. The owner spoke very little English and I think had already put away a few apertifs (drinks).  I tried ordering just drinks first. We ended up with not one but two plates of Bruschetta. Eventually we were finally able to order the meat and cheese platter (which was what I had thought I ordered in the first place). Both were very good!




Bruschetta 

Meat & Cheese Platter


The rain drove us inside

Gelateria Caffetteria Gianni 56 you can't go wrong with Gelato.


Caramel/Pistachio

La TrAversa this place was also located in an alleyway. They had some live music. Food portions were small but perfect for us. The waiter even talked us into dessert, which we very seldom order. His mother's homemade caprese cake. 


Caprese Salad

Stuffed Pacchero
Pasta filled cheese and eggplants

Grandma's Meatball
Caprese Cake

When did we visit? May 11 through May 17, 2023

Overall, Salerno is a charming and picturesque city that offers something for everyone -- especially food!

"Grateful for where I’m at and excited about where I’m going"

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